Cyprus-made halloumi gets EU protection

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Halloumi is the latest cheese to receive special European Union protection.

From now on, traditional makers in Cyprus will be able to market their age-old recipe with a protection designation of origin (PDO) stamp to signal authenticity.

The ruling also gives Cyprus added legal rights to stop other cheesemakers from selling traditional-recipe halloumi in the EU and United Kingdom.

The Australian Dairy Industry Council said it was ready to fight over the halloumi name if the EU demanded halloumi monopoly in future trade deals.

“Claiming there is a special knowledge that only producers in Cyprus possess is absurd and will lead to an unfair and anti-competitive outcome,” ADIC chair Terry Richardson said.

National Farmers’ Federation chief executive Tony Mahar said the EU's geographic indications "regime" is "a Trojan horse for European protectionism".

The PDO status also means Cypriot cheesemakers who wish to use the EU stamp will be held to a standard of high quality — something a few have taken issue with.

Turkish-Cypriot hellim (halloumi) factory owner Mahmut Erden said the EU's definition of halloumi as 51 per cent goat or sheep's milk would make the product more expensive.

“This is very bad for north and south producers,” Mr Erden said.

On the whole, the Mediterranean island locals have hailed the decision.

Cypriot President Nicos Anastasiades welcomed the move, calling it "a milestone day for halloumi/hellim and our country".

Agriculture Minister Costas Kadis said the decision protected halloumi against imitators.

Halloumi is Cyprus's largest export, earning AUD$385 million last year — 40 per cent of that going to the UK.

Cyprus has a history of taking legal action against companies making alternative halloumi and failing to win the cases, including Sweden's Grilloumi, a Greek halloumi/vermion grill cheese and a Bulgarian BBQloumi.