Every Bite Tells a Story
Every bite tells a story | The duo behind Peking City’s iconic Cantonese cuisine
Dive into the heart of the Goulburn Valley’s culinary scene with Jan and Paul Phillips. Every Friday, the pair will serve our readers with their knowledge of our communities’ restaurants, cafés and pubs — one plate at a time.
Chinese restaurants in country towns often served as our first introduction to exotic cuisine, opening a world of flavours beyond our traditional fare. With their colourful decor and enticing aromas, these eateries offered a delightful escape and a culinary adventure in the heart of our familiar surroundings. From savouring our first bite of sweet and sour pork to mastering the use of chopsticks, these restaurants broadened our palates and sparked a lifelong appreciation for diverse cuisines.
It was lovely to talk to Peking City owners Allan and Rebecca Chan about their history and our own memories. Paul Phillips immediately loved the hand-folded serviettes as he claimed to have folded 1000 of them from his Australia Hotel days growing up.
Another memorable experience involved taking our own pots and pans to the Taiwan Restaurant, located upstairs in Shepparton’s mall. The excitement of this unique experience was amplified by the owners’ clever approach to providing deliciously exotic yet environmentally friendly takeaway food.
The original owners, Yung Chan (anglicised to Archie Young) and Leo Chuck, left an indelible mark on our town. They significantly influenced local dining habits and introduced new cuisines, creating a flourishing food culture.
Hom Ming (changed to Gus Homming) and his wife owned Amber Court. Both Gus and Leo married Archie’s sisters — Gus married Irene Young, and Leo married Evelyn Young — cementing their families’ involvement in the local community.
Allan’s father and uncle worked as internationally sponsored cooks in Taiwan, and Allan himself for a short period. Leo Chuck’s sister Mary taught many of us piano, his other sister Shiela Favaloro was well known for her and her husband’s local bakery, her community work and being on the board at GV Health for many years, and his children Jenny and Peter still live in Shepparton.
Gus Homming and Irene eventually moved to Sydney and successfully ran the Lotus Lily restaurant in Double Bay; his impact on our community remained strong. Paul remembers travelling to Sydney on the train with his parents to visit the Hommings and eat at their restaurant. The story gets more involved as Gus, while at Amber Court, had a chef named Peter Lu, who followed him to Sydney, worked at the Lotus Lily and eventually opened his own restaurant in Strathfield. Allan then went to Sydney and worked for Peter, where he honed his vast skills.
The legacy of these pioneering families continues with Allan and Rebecca Chan. Allan, who came to Australia from China, worked at the Taiwan Restaurant, where he met Rebecca, who came from Hong Kong. Their story began as pen pals and blossomed into a lifelong partnership. They founded Peking City 46 years ago and have since become an integral part of our community. Their restaurant, located on the spacious and beautifully maintained Wyndham St, has become a beloved institution in Shepparton.
Renowned for its delectable Cantonese cuisine, Peking City offers a wide array of dishes, including French-style and Asian food, as well as delicious seafood. Each dish is prepared with fresh ingredients and traditional cooking techniques, catering to various tastes and dietary needs.
Peking City’s elegant and traditional decor, complete with Chinese lanterns and artwork, enhances the relaxing atmosphere. The restaurant offers both dine-in and takeout options, making it a popular destination for families, couples and groups of friends.
Gaz Goodman, a good friend, claims that Peking City has the best hot and sour soup he has ever had. We recently sampled their banquet for two, which was both economical and delicious. The meal started with chicken and corn soup, followed by an array of delectable appetisers, including spring rolls, chicken wings and pork dumplings. The main course featured Peking steak, boneless lemon chicken, and the best special fried rice; the servings were to be shared generously — a generosity echoed in the welcome received from our hosts Allan and Rebecca.
Food pricing for Peking City, rated by Jan and Paul: $$
(Expensive $$$, moderate $$ good value $)