In the Kitchen with Deb | French recipe with a modern twist

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Patrick Quinn and the coquilles Saint-Jacques. Photo by Contributed

Debbie Quinn has a lifelong love of food and cooking, nurtured in her parents’ restaurants and in her own family’s kitchen. Every fortnight she shares her passion and expertise with our readers, bringing her best recipes, tips and tricks to the table.

Deb’s coquilles Saint-Jacques

It’s been birthday season in the Quinn household recently.

Last week, my father-in-law, Pat Quinn, turned 91, and I made this dish as an entrée for his celebration dinner. And oh, what a delight it was, scallops in white wine with mushrooms. Pat used to make this dish for dinner parties back in the 1970s and ’80s, where the guests would regularly include Don and Marion Phillips and Max and Joan North.

So, I made a modern version of the traditional French recipe using lots of fresh herbs to give it some real zing. It was unanimously voted the best dish of the dinner, and most importantly, Pat loved it.

Ingredients

750g scallops (remove the tough white vein)

250g baby mushrooms (stems taken off; the rest wiped with a damp kitchen paper towel)

1 tsp butter and 1 tsp olive oil for the mushrooms (refer to recipe)

2 cups water

2 teaspoons Massel chicken stock powder

1 cup dry white wine

60g butter

2 tablespoons cornflour

¾ cup milk

½ cup cream

2 teaspoons lemon juice

30g melted butter extra

1 cup stale breadcrumbs

2 tbsp grated parmesan or pecorino cheese

4 spring onions, finely sliced

½ bunch fresh chives finely chopped

½ cup fresh dill roughly chopped

Method

Remove the vein from the scallops. Combine the scallops in a saucepan with mushrooms, water, chicken stock powder and wine. Bring to a gentle simmer on very low heat (do not boil, or the scallops will be overcooked). The scallops should be just opaque.

Remove the scallops and mushrooms with a slotted spoon (reserve the stock), and drain on absorbent paper. Separate the mushrooms from the scallops. Strain the stock, return the stock to the pan and boil rapidly until reduced to 1 cup.

Cut the mushrooms in half. In a non-stick fry pan on medium heat, add 1 teaspoon of butter and 1 teaspoon of olive oil. Add the mushrooms and brown them, stirring occasionally to add a little bit of colour and extra flavour (it only takes a couple of minutes). Drain on absorbent paper and put aside.

Melt 60g butter in a saucepan. Stir in cornflour and stir over medium heat for 1 minute. Gradually stir in stock and milk, whisking constantly over medium heat until the mixture boils and thickens. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring for 1 minute. Stir in cream and lemon juice.

Combine extra melted butter in a bowl with breadcrumbs and cheese.

Spoon scallops and mushrooms into individual buttered heatproof serving dishes.

Sprinkle with spring onions, chives and dill over the top of the scallop mixture. Then, divide the breadcrumb mixture between serving dishes and place it under the heated grill until the breadcrumbs are golden brown (around 6 to 8 minutes).

Deb’s tips

This is a fantastic entrée. You can purchase small heatproof serving dishes from In Hospitality in Shepparton if you don’t have any at home; they are relatively inexpensive and are important to the presentation of this dish. They say you eat with your eyes first, and you will be able to use them for many culinary delights.

It’s important not to overcook the scallops; just bring the stock to a very light simmer and drain it straight away. The scallops don’t need to be cooked through initially, as they will finish cooking under the grill.

It’s a bit of double handling cooking the mushrooms twice. However, it’s important because it adds much more flavour to the stock and the mushrooms.

The crust of the breadcrumbs is a real feature of this dish. I blend my own from stale ciabatta or sourdough, but you could also use panko breadcrumbs.

If you don’t like scallops, you can substitute them for green king prawns; just slice the prawns down the middle (not all the way through), remove the vein, rinse them under cold running water and pat dry with absorbent paper to remove all the moisture. Then, follow the same recipe.

I have been purchasing beautiful large frozen scallops from IGA in Tatura. You just thaw them out on a tray with absorbent paper underneath, remove the tough white vein around the side of the scallop, and don’t worry if the roe separates. You can still use it.

They are perfect for this dish. Alternatively, if you can get lovely fresh scallops, use them. They are usually a lot smaller, so you need to be careful not to overcook them.

Patrick Quinn with his cake. Photo by Contributed
Photo by Rechelle Zammit
Coquilles Saint-Jacques is best served in a beautifully scalloped dish. Photo by Contributed
Fresh ingredients for classic French dish coquilles Saint-Jacques. Photo by Contributed
Behold the final dish, beautifully seared scallops and a golden crust, ready to impress. Photo by Contributed