Rethink the humble drumstick

Step 1: I often use two knives when I know at least one of the knives stands a chance of having its edge dulled by cutting against bone. It's an approach shown to me in one of Australia's highest profile butcher shops where customers can step in off the street and watch a master craftsperson in action. The idea has two main benefits, firstly using one knife for all known/intended cuts against bone; and secondly should one knife become dull, you hopefully have a second option to switch to without hesitation. This short and very pointed knife is my main tool for tunnel boning drumsticks.

STEVE BAIN wields his knife skills on chicken this month to turn ordinary old drumsticks into something new — boneless, portion-controlled roasts.

The reason for removing (tunnel boning) the leg bone out of the chicken drumstick is to present this preferred cut in such a way that makes it easy to eat with a knife and fork.

Such a presentation is ideal for younger diners and those that prefer not to have to work their way around a bone with knife and fork.

Step 2: Start by cutting through the joint that connects the drumstick and the thigh bone. It is important to remember that the aim is to cut between the two bones — it is okay to cut through cartilage, but not through bone.
Step 3: Once the drumstick is separated from the thigh, now run a knife the full circumference around the 'ankle' and cut through the skin (and into the bone — this is the 'against the bone' cut that was mentioned earlier).
Step 4: This wide shot shows the placement of the knife point at the other end, that is, the thick end of the drumstick bone.
Step 5: A closer look to highlight the pointed knife's orientation between 'knuckle' and chicken meat. The process here is to cut the meat away from around the end of the bone.
Step 6: Next, cut deeper (along the leg bone) by pushing the point of the knife deeper into the chicken flesh, keeping the knife as close to the leg bone (the shank) as possible. The aim is to cut the meat away from the bone. Make this cut on every surface of the leg bone.
Step 7: Continue to separate the bone from the surrounding drumstick meat; do this by flensing the knife edge along the leg bone. Ensure that you leave the hard bits attached to the leg bone and not your meat.
Step 8: Once your knife is most of the way down/along the bone, you can put the knife aside and by using two fingers to grip the chicken and the other hand to pull on the bone, you can pull the bone through. The bone should pull completely and cleanly out of the drumstick. If not, a little trimming with either knife or scissors/shears will achieve the desired outcome.
Step 9: Finally, turn the drumstick 'outside-in' (skin on the outside) and present the pocketed poultry ready for stuffing. You may remove the skin if that is your preference — we tend to cook some with and some without.